

But as we sit down at the table and settle in, our attention rests on warmer details.Ī small electric heater playfully disguises itself as a mini fireplace. It’s fresh inside, and if we're being honest – a little chilly. The young woman behind the counter welcomes us in and shows us to our seats.
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A bright orange sign gleefully announces ice cream, while a TV mounted on the wall blares sentimental Lebanese music videos. Are you actually going to someone’s house? Will there be obvious signage or will you have to knock on some strange door, only to be met by a perplexed old Lebanese woman and her wooden spoon? Our concerns are fast assuaged as we approach the restaurant and see tables and chairs scattered out the front of a clearly marked establishment.Īt first glance, the dining space seems somewhat reminiscent of a casual kebab shop. On a rainy Sunday arvo, it's hard to know what to expect on your way to Taita’s House ('taita' is Arabic for grandmother). On the negative side there’s also a 20th-century approach to sound baffling, so it can sound like a small revolution is fomenting beneath the lazily twirling fans. It looks and feels like it could have been serving oysters – natural with a tiny bottle of Tabasco, or punchily flecked in bottarga and horseradish – at the dawn of existentialism. It’s typically understated, with a curving red timber ceiling, a long zinc bar, a winsome little terrace with umbrella-covered tables. It was only natural the hospitality industry’s King of Moomba would declare himself dissatisfied and decide to add something French to his happy family.įrench Saloon, housed above Kirk’s Wine Bar – a Christopoulos production in Melbourne’s 6th arrondissement around Hardware Lane – doesn’t beat diners about the head in some clichéd So-Frenchy-So-Chic kind of way.
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He’s collected almost the full quiver, including but in no way limited to: an Italian (Emilia), a couple of wine bars (Neapoli, City Wine Shop), a rooftop haunt (Siglo), a supper club (the Supper Club), and a European (the European).

Pop into sister wine bar Kirk's and ascend the staircase to see what remains – and what's changed. The below review was written in March 2016.

July 4 update: French Saloon is back! After two and a half years of existing as a functions-only venue on Hardware Lane, hospo legend Con Christopolous has reverted the space back into the European bistro and bar Melburnians missed so dearly throughout the lockdown age.
